P O R T O N O V O
- odette340
- Aug 6
- 2 min read
Portonovo is about an hour from the house. It lies in the heart of Monte Conero, in a secluded bay where the green hills practically tumble into the turquoise water. No village, no promenade, just a bay with a handful of chalets, a few historical gems, and above all, a relaxed atmosphere that you'll easily fall in love with.
You can drive directly to Portonovo and park at one of the parking lots near the beach. From there, it's just a few steps to the sand and clear water. Here, you can rent a lounger at a chalet and order a portion of moscioli, the famous wild mussels that grow only here off the coast.
But Portonovo is more than just a beautiful beach. It's also home to one of the region's most unique restaurants: Clandestino Susci Bar, by Michelin-starred chef Moreno Cedroni. It's not a fancy place, but a simple beach bar right on the sand. The menu? Not your standard grilled fish, but susci, Cedroni's creative Italian twist on sushi, with sea bass, shrimp, citrus, herbs, and Asian influences. Luxurious dining in a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere is what makes Clandestino truly unique.
Between lunch and aperitif, you can take a short walk to the Torre di Guardia, the old defense tower that has overlooked the bay for centuries, or to the small church of Santa Maria di Portonovo, which seems to stand almost on the water.
Craving a plate of those famous moscioli? Then Chalet Numana is the place to be. Perfectly situated on the beach, this chalet not only serves an incredibly good plate of mussels but also has a relaxed, casual atmosphere. Perfect for enjoying the freshness of the sea while gazing at the horizon. It's simple, yet as authentic as it gets.
Stick around for lunch, and before you know it, spritz in hand, you'll be watching the sun set behind the Conero Mountains. Whether you choose moscioli at a chalet or susci at a Michelin-starred restaurant, Portonovo is highly recommended.
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